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Our journey begins with a steep
ascent from the small church in
Case Noyale and beyond. Our first
stop? Le Chamarel Restaurant for
its panoramic views towards Le
Morne and a lagoon that encircles
Ile aux Benitiers and other islets.
On the road leading to the centre
of the village, we come across
some delightful sights, including
large white-barked bois noir
(Falcataria moluccana), a coconut
grove that reminds us we’re in the
Tropics and a watercourse where
small statues of Hindu gods
have been placed. Chamarel is a
microcosm, typical of Mauritius
– colourful, harmonious and
multicultural.
Suddenly, the tranquillity of the
village is broken by the very
1980s sound of Voyage Voyage.
We’re naturally curious and find
ourselves in front of the home
of Fia and Ajay, a farming couple
whose daily life is filled with
the sounds of a radio and the
bleating of their young goats.
Their pretty little corrugated-iron
home is surrounded by plots of
vegetables and flowers, especially
chrysanthemums, daisies and
birds of paradise. There is a
backdrop of mango, banana and
other fruit trees, under which
rabbits and chickens shelter from
the sun. A narrow river that runs
through their land provides Fia
and Ajay with water to irrigate
their plants – as well as a supply
of delicious freshwater prawns
(camarons).
As our appetite has been
awakened by tasting some of
Fia’s tangy passionfruit, we decide
to have lunch at the popular
Palais de Barbizon, which serves
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colourful local dishes such as fish
with lentils, calabash, home-made
green banana chutney, brèdes
songes (stewed taro leaves) and
giraumon (a variety of squash) with
salted fish. Le Chamarel Restaurant
also serves a local speciality, its
famous La Tab’Diri (Mauritian Rice
Table), but we’ll keep that for our
next trip.
an important place in Rastafarian
culture in Mauritius. It’s here
that the Rastafari Socio-cultural
Association has built its Nyabinghi
Tabernacle under an informal
arrangement with Case Noyale
Ltee. Claude is smiling and friendly,
happy to chat with us. He’s proud
of his Rasta heritage and speaks
warmly of the benefits of a lifestyle
"OUR JOURNEY BEGINS WITH A STEEP
ASCENT FROM THE SMALL CHURCH IN CASE
NOYALE AND BEYOND. "
It’s time for a stroll, so we set off
for the site of the Seven-Coloured
Earth. It is pleasant enough, but
we particularly recommend the
Chamarel Waterfalls, the tallest
in the island, and the endemic
plant garden. While there, we take
the opportunity to enjoy a cup of
Chamarel Arabica coffee, some of
which is cultivated and roasted on
the site itself.
We join a local Rastafarian, Claude
Lecordier, under the shade of a
palm tree. We had wanted to meet
him because Chamarel occupies
that respects the well-being of
the environment. “95% of people
spend their time in a constant
hurry. I prefer to opt out from
such a system and stay close to
nature.” When he’s not looking
after gardens near where he lives,
Claude grows sweetcorn – organic
naturally. To be honest, we’re
rather envious of the peaceful
outdoor lifestyle we’ve found in
Chamarel!
