KCR WINTER 24:25 Magazine FINAL 1 - Flipbook - Page 46
All Aboard The Rocky Mountaineer
“If we can’t export the scenery, then we’ll have to import the tourists.”
So said William Van Horne, President of Canadian Paci昀椀c Railway back
in the late 19th century, and one of the driving forces in creating the
trans-continental railroad across the country.
Well over a century on, the trains are still importing tourists to discover
the spectacular scenery of the Canadian Rockies — but in a lot more
comfort than the early rail pioneers could have dreamed of.
If the level of luxury has changed, the scenery is as spectacular as ever
and the train is still one of the best ways to appreciate it if you book a
seat aboard the Rocky Mountaineer on its First Passage to the West itinerary, a two-day journey linking Vancouver to Lake Louise and Ban昀昀.
Start your voyage in style, checking in to the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver,
a regal French chateau-style building in the heart of Downtown for a
chance to explore the city before you depart.
According to legend, one Vancouver socialite loved the hotel so much
that after she was killed in a car crash in 1944, she decided to haunt the
hotel for the rest of her afterlife. You might not spot the ‘lady in red’, as
she’s known, but it’s hard to argue with her choice.
As well as traditional minimalist decor, bespoke toiletries, fabulous
views and the kind of beds you sink into and never want to leave, some
of the suites on the 14th 昀氀oor have also preserved their original Art Deco
styling. Or for something a little more modern, book in for afternoon tea
and discover the hidden themed room tucked away behind a secret door
disguised as a bookcase. The tea itself is themed too, taking its inspiration from cherry blossom in the spring or more autumnal creations by
autumn.
Walking distance from the Vancouver waterfront, it’s also a short stroll
from its sister hotel, the 昀椀ve-star Fairmont Paci昀椀c Rim — stop by for
sushi at RawBar followed by a Raincouver cocktail complete with edible
cocktail at the Botanist bar upstairs.
But while there’s plenty to tempt you to stay longer in Vancouver, from
the green open space of Stanley Park to the scenery of Vancouver Island,
the collections at the Vancouver Art Gallery, and quirky city tours
from the likes of Forbidden Vancouver, there’s even more to tempt you
aboard the Rocky Mountaineer.
For the full luxury experience, travel GoldLeaf class — from the top half
of these tall carriages, panoramic windows let you gaze out at the changing landscape as you travel from the Paci昀椀c west coast through lush
valleys, past lakes and rivers and onwards to the snow-capped peaks of
the Canadia Rockies.
Tempting though it is to settle back in the heated leather seat, adjusting
the settings for the perfect 昀椀t, rousing yourself only to accept snacks
and drinks, or venturing down to the dining car, it’s well worth saving
some time to head out onto the open observation deck as well. You’ll
need to move at least twice each day for breakfast and a three-course
lunch in the downstairs dining area. In GoldLeaf Class, these are cooked
from scratch each day, with alternative options to suit di昀昀erent dietary
requirements as well as plenty of choice for vegetarians.
There’s no question of slumming it in SilverLeaf class, although there’s
a more limited selection of food and you eat at your seat, but it’s hard
to resist the sheer pampered indulgence of GoldLeaf. But whatever seat
you choose, the views are unbeatable. Vast swathes of evergreens carpet
the hills, with splashes of glorious yellow from the larches in autumn,
and bursts of vibrant red from the maples.
The line winds past a series of rivers and lakes, some mirror-still and
sparkling blue, others a torrent of white water cascading over rocks and
carving out ever wider bends under the cli昀昀 sides. You’ll pass towns
named for an English Baron, an osprey nest that’s over 100 years old,
and dramatic scenery known as Jaws of Death gorge and Hell’s Gate,
named by explorer Simon Fraser over 200 years ago.
Elsewhere, the swathes of colour caused by di昀昀erent minerals in the
earth led to another area being dubbed Rainbow Canyon, while the little
town of Yale was known as ‘the most wicked town in the west’.
Once home to around 10,000 inhabitants, the 昀椀rst settlers came in
search of spices before realising furs were far more lucrative — and the
Gold Rush which followed, even more so. Today, only 200 people live
here, one of many small towns dotting the route of the train.
With on-board hosts sharing tales of the building of the transcontinental railway, some of the more colourful characters in Canada’s history
and pointing out other highlights along the way, you’ll never be bored.
Plus there’s the chance of wildlife sightings too; a bear is high on most
people’s wishlist but often tricky to spot, although long-horn sheep, a
herd of elk and a succession of bald-headed eagles made up for that on
our trip.
The one thing you won’t 昀椀nd aboard the train is a bed. Instead your
luggage is whisked seamlessly ahead to your hotel room in Kamloops for
your overnight stop, arriving much of the time in darkness and leaving
before the sun rises the following day. The experience needn’t end when
you disembark from the train either, with the chance to stay longer in
Lake Louise or Ban昀昀. There’s a choice of Fairmonts to be had here as
well; Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise overlooks the lake itself, named for
Queen Victoria’s daughter, now Canada’s second most popular tourist
attraction.
In summer, there’s hiking and e-biking to explore, or paddle out onto
the vibrant waters of the lake in one of the hotel’s canoes — a bright emerald shade in summer, it becomes a deeper turquoise as autumn progresses, framed with snow-capped mountains. Or in Ban昀昀, the Fairmont
Ban昀昀 Springs manages to mix Scottish baronial style in the grand lobby
and a rather more contemporary side in the Rundle Bar, with cocktails
from its award-winning mixologist and sharing plates, along with a golf
course and spa.
Sister hotel, the Rimrock Resort, is a newer addition to the group, with
renovations on the cards for next year. Book in to Eden 昀椀ne dining restaurant while you can, with its 17,000-bottle wine cellar, whose vintages
accompany the mouth-wateringly creative menu. Local ingredients are
reimagined in dishes such as a maple trout mosaic decorated with edible
昀氀owers, while balsamic pearls transform winter tomatoes and even serving the dishes becomes a slickly entertaining experience to enjoy.
If you can still waddle the few minutes up the hillside past wisps of
steam from the hot springs, there’s a 昀椀nal chance to indulge in that
magical mountain scenery with a ride in the Ban昀昀 Gondola. Climbing
up Sulphur Mountain, named for those steaming thermal waters, the
gondola whisks you to 7,486ft above sea level in less than 10 minutes.
For the best views, head outside where the boardwalk leads to Sanson
Peak, the highest point of the mountain, to look down onto the glittering
Bow River, Lake Minnewanka, Ban昀昀’s attractive town centre and the
surrounding peaks, all dusted with a sprinkling of snow.
It’s not only the climb and the altitude which takes your breath away. A
昀椀tting end to an unforgettable adventure.
Factbox
The two-day First Passage to the West route, from Vancouver to Ban昀昀,
costs from £1,389 per person for SilverLeaf service or from £1,897
per person for GoldLeaf Service. Includes two days onboard Rocky
Mountaineer, all meals on the train, one night hotel stay in Kamloops,
and luggage handling and rail station transfers in Kamloops. Departs
between 14 April and 10 October, 2025, packages including stays in
Vancouver and Ban昀昀 or Lake Louise are also available.
www.rockymountaineer.com
By Cathy Winston
Images credit: Rocky Mountaineer
