KCR WINTER 24:25 Magazine FINAL 1 - Flipbook - Page 37
Horse and Groom,
Oddington
The Dolce Vita at
Daphne’s
Amid the re昀椀ned charm of South Kensington and Chelsea, Daphne’s radiates the glamour and vivaciousness of its namesake Casting Director.
Upon arrival, we proceeded through the decorative doors and under
chintzy lampshades to meet the gracious sta昀昀 who welcomed us in as if
into their own home, carefully storing our coats in the hallway. Beyond,
the lights were low-lit, casting a warm and cosy glow across the restaurant as diners chit-chatted and narrowed their choices on the irresistible
Italian menu.
We were guided through the bustling dining room, past a sultry bar,
vintage chandeliers, crisp white tablecloths and colourful paintings,
and into the conservatory, which in my eyes, holds the best seats in the
house. The aesthetics throughout have been perfectly arranged with a
Mediterranean garden feel, featuring symmetrical arched mirrors, rattan chairs, potted olive trees and romantic parasols perching cheerfully
overhead. The decorations change with the seasons, giving even regular
diners a surprise on each visit. With Christmas just around the corner,
the space is now dressed to the nines with magical baubles and 昀椀r tree
garlands, plus the cracking 昀椀replace on the far wall will truly come into
its own. This whimsical space, with its storybook appeal, can also be privately hired, o昀昀ering a fairytale setting for intimate events or weddings
after a civil ceremony at Chelsea Old Town Hall.
Once shown to our table, we were greeted by the friendly table waiter,
who explained the menu and specials for the day, and we tried the house
red wine — a delightful bottle of organic Amoterra Montepulciano from
Abruzzo. It’s a vibrant, fruit-forward wine that can as easily be enjoyed
on its own, or to complement a variety of dishes on the menu. While
mulling over the food options, we savoured the smooth red, tucked into
the bread basket and settled into the elegant ambience.
After bothering the kissing gates of Gloucestershire, whether or not
you have stepped in a puddle right up to your middle, you’ll need some
serious refuelling. You could attempt to muscle your way into an average
and overpriced establishment in Bourton-on-the-Water (dubbed locally
as the Piccadilly Circus of the Cotswolds) and if you’re lucky you might
even have your mushy peas served in a teacup, but if you’re prepared to
take a ten minute drive, you’ll discover the real Cotswolds at the Horse
and Groom in Upper Oddington, and you won’t 昀椀nd more charming
landlords than Warren and Norman.
The pub dates from 1584 and remained open during both world wars,
not to mention during the pandemic when its current owners continued to serve the local community with their innovative menu of surf ‘n’
turf with a fusion twist. With Norman’s Asian heritage, the couple were
inspired to bring popular sharing dishes to the table, such as gyoza,
spring rolls, crispy fried chicken, and, one Christmas, dim sum famously
prepared by Norman himself. Now one of Estrella’s top 50 gastro pubs,
the Horse and Groom o昀昀ers incredible tapas-style starters, exceptionally
prepared meat and 昀椀sh (including lobster), and a relaxed rural ambience you won’t 昀椀nd in Bourton, just six miles away.
For mains, the bone-in lemon sole was a no-brainer, with green beans,
garlic tender stem broccoli and skin-on chips. My other half was persuaded away from steak in favour of 昀氀ame-grilled Welsh lamb cutlets,
which he wouldn’t see the like of at home. Both of us were eyeing up the
sixteen-ounce Chateaubriand, but decided to save it until the children
weren’t in attendance, happily grazing on penne.
Dessert was a decadent a昀昀air: an enormous slice of sticky to昀昀ee pudding
(which proved enough for three to share), and a pineapple tarte tatin
with coconut ice cream, another of Norman’s inventions.
I now have ambitions to return on a Sunday for a roast lunch and a
full-crusted pie.
https://www.horseandgroomcotswolds.co.uk/
Laura Steel
Head Chef Chris Dargavel’s menu is in typical Italian format, featuring
antipasti, primi, secondi and dessert courses. Daphne’s prides itself on
authentic regional gastronomy, and the variety of dishes enables you to
keep it as light or as indulgent as you please. We opted for the refreshing Burrata with Slow Roasted San Marzano Tomato & Pesto, and the
crowd-pleasing Parmigiana shared between us for the starter. The
combination of the melt-in-the-mouth cheese with the zing of the dried
tomatoes, and the hearty layers of baked aubergine made for a delightful
opening. The food was served in gleaming white china bowls with the
Daphne’s logo emblazoned on the rim; the presentation was immaculate
and called for an overhead photo before the temptation of digging in.
The Cacio e Pepe is an art form in Italy — a balance of perfectly cooked
Bucatini pasta, Pecorino Romano cheese, and generous lashings of black
pepper. At Daphne’s, this dish is executed with precision, its silky texture and creamy cheese sauce showcasing high-quality ingredients and
careful preparation. It made for a delicious 昀椀rst course before my secondi: a beautifully roasted 昀椀llet of cod accompanied by white beans, crab,
and cavolo nero. The dish o昀昀ered a harmonious symphony of delicate
昀氀avours, with each element complementing and elevating the others.
To round o昀昀 the culinary journey, delving into the dessert menu truly
highlighted the Dolce Vita at Daphne’s. We were told the tiramisu is a
昀椀rm favourite and it did not fail to impress. Pillowy spoonfuls of co昀昀ee
and cream paired with a palate-cleansing tea perfectly concluded the
decadent meal. It won’t be long before I 昀椀nd myself booking another
visit, eager to share the boundless joy of authentic Italian cuisine here in
the company of good friends.To book a table, visit daphnes-restaurant.
co.uk or call 020 7589 4257. Emily Cotterhill
