KCR WINTER 24:25 Magazine FINAL 1 - Flipbook - Page 36
At the Coppa Cabana
Like a Sturgeon
KCR visits Madonna’s former stomping ground for a slice of quotidian
glamour.
If you turn your back on the stark lines of Park Lane and venture east
into the heart of Mayfair, you’ll discover a part of west central London
which feels surprisingly lived in.
During winter months, the twinkling lights of South Audley Street are
a far cry from the gaudiness of Oxford Circus; you’ll even 昀椀nd a local
primary school and proper community feel on South Street, nestled
between the dreamy, terraced houses, which - understandably - rarely
change hands.
The Punch Bowl, on neighbouring Farm Street, has the distinct oldschool charm of other iconic London pubs like the Pineapple in Kentish
Town. Once owned by Guy Ritchie and Madonna, this Butcombe boozer
is a real home-from-home, with cosy 昀椀replaces, William Morris wallpaper, dried 昀氀ower arrangements and quirky light 昀椀ttings. The building
itself dates from the middle of the eighteenth century, and as such, it’s a
listed building. The Butcombe group has acquired a clutch of similarly
nostalgic properties across the home counties and West Country, not
least the boutique inns, the George and the Loxford in Somerset. With
decent lager and largely unpretentious grub, you can’t go too far wrong.
Upstairs, Judy’s dining room is a genuinely chic space which feels both
intimate and convivial. My advice? Unless you’re mad keen on oysters,
skip straight to the Cornish halibut. It’s not a 昀椀sh found commonly on à
la carte menus, with seabass and Dover sole being far more ubiquitous.
It’s meatier, more substantial, and a worthier rival of me-old-mucker’s
steak. With sides of moyenne fries and garlic-buttered mushrooms to
share, conversation 昀氀owed nicely, even if I’m now kicking myself for
not sampling the house cocktail, with white rum and amaretti liqueur.
As it was Monday night, I happily nursed a couple of glasses of Arte de
Argento Malbec instead and was thankful I left room for the Tiramichoux bun: a top-quality pastry 昀椀lled with co昀昀ee cream and topped
with melted chocolate. I was only a little envious of my companion’s
photogenic 昀椀ggy pudding and matching old fashioned, and he wasn’t
inclined to share.
Given its associations with rock and roll royalty, the pub has a reputation, historically, for debauchery. We saw none of that at the beginning
of the working week, but I like to think weekend punters still have the
required swagger to disturb the peace from time to time.
https://butcombe.com/the-punchbowl-pub-mayfair/
The new riverside pods at Coppa Club really do hold the heat, which
might explain why sta昀昀 fondly refer to them as igloos, although they’re
far from chilly.
Directly opposite Tower Millennium Pier, Coppa Club is the perfect setting for intimate drinks, if you’re hoping to show London o昀昀 at its best.
You could easily jump on the river bus at Chelsea Harbour or Cadogan
with a single tap of your Oyster card (how retro!) and slum it on public
transport all the way there.
Like most London restaurants, the star of the show here is the 昀椀sh. The
salmon carpaccio and chalk stream trout are especially good, washed
down with an array of delicious classic cocktails.
With stunning views of Tower Bridge, and within two minutes’ walk of
the Tower itself, you’d be a fool not to make a day of it. Once home to
an enormous menagerie, including lions and even a polar bear, you can
now explore its unique history at the Royal Beasts exhibition.
In terms of atmosphere, Coppa Club really is a cut above other Thameside o昀昀erings, but the igloos are popular. Our advice? Book ahead.
Coppa Club, Three Quays Walk, EC3R 6AH
coppaclub.co.uk
Laura Steel
