KCR WINTER 24:25 Magazine FINAL 1 - Flipbook - Page 35
UMU - King of Kyoto Kaiseki
Kaiseki is a traditional, multi-course Japanese dining experience that
champions seasonal ingredients, arty presentation like all things Japanese, and ‘harmonious’ 昀氀avours. Originating in Nippon’s Edo period,
Kaiseki traces its roots back to the Japanese tea ceremonies of the 16th
century which themselves evolved from its Chinese counterpart. Kyoto
being a key historical and cultural centre has contributed to the development of this beautiful cuisine with its’s own stamp of Kaiseki based
on seasonal produce from in and around the city and UMU in Mayfair
is the godfather of this movement in London. It is a culinary experience
that has now reigned supreme in London for over twenty years and
has diligently maintained the high standards which 昀椀rst earned it the
coveted Michelin star.
The tasting menu is the best way to enjoy UMU and here is the seasonal
menu that we experienced in September when it celebrated its richly-deserved and glorious 20th year anniversary.
Selection of Japanese Finger Foods
Starters - Kombu Cured Sea Bream, Scallop Miso
Nimonowan - Fine Clear Soup Lobster, Prawn Shinjo
Tsukuri - Sashimi by Yoshi
Sushi Sea Bass Sesame AND Langoustine Ginger AND Toro Aburi Truf昀氀e and Crab Courgette
Yakimono - Eel Kabayaki & Wagyu Beef AND Maitake, Girolles, Egg
Yolk Miso Zuke, Sweet Potato
Dessert - Charamisu, Sake Kasu
I should have asked for a copy of this menu towards having it framed
beautifully for posterity and I might just pay UMU a visit and request
one before the seasonality elapses. It was heavenly perfection, a perfect
melange of taste, elegant dining with understated pomp and theatre and
all within the most charmingly homely ambience of UMU’s main hall.
We went for the sake pairing rather than the wine (obvious choice for
me and there is also a slightly more premium quality sake pairing for
£240). From the moment the Masumi Sparkling sake hit the lips and
delivered its crisp bubbles and wine-like acidity with a whi昀昀 of savoury
and creamy undertones to ecstatically complement the 昀椀nger food, I
knew a masterpiece of a culinary experience had been initiated. The
quality of the ingredients is top grade as you’d expect and freshness and
natural 昀氀avours abound. . Experience is the key word here not just in
terms of the overall theme but also the seasoned waiting and serving
sta昀昀 who are worthy foils to the genius that is Executive Chef Ryo Kamatsu. Having gone through the gears with startlingly brilliant courses
of sashimi, sushi and Yakimono, we end with the erudite sweetness
of Charamisu and Sake kasu. A 昀椀ttingly glorious end to an amazing
evening at one of our favourite places in London and not just amongst
the Japanese or Asian restaurants. A true star that has been shining
bright for twenty years since its much-needed birth within the Mayfair
nebulae. By Sid Raghava
