KCR WINTER 24:25 Magazine FINAL 1 - Flipbook - Page 32
Tête-à-tête with UMU Head Chef
Ryo Kamatsu
Last September, trailblazing Michelin-starred restaurant UMU proudly
celebrated its 20th anniversary with two extraordinary dinner partnerships, o昀昀ering a rare chance to sample the 昀椀nest selection of Moët
& Chandon vintage champagnes plus a very special 2004 anniversary
Jeroboam (double magnum) bottle of Moët & Chandon paired alongside UMU’s most exquisite signature dishes. Over the past two decades,
UMU has become a cornerstone of Japanese 昀椀ne dining in London, celebrated for its innovative approach, unwavering commitment to quality,
and deep respect for traditional Japanese culture.
Head Chef Ryo is Argentinian from Japanese descent. He undertook
his Kaiseki training at 2 Michelin starred Kaiseki Ichimonji in Tokyo.
He has also been involved in other ventures from setting up his own
Izakaya concept to enriching his skills in other foreign cuisines. In 2014,
he was asked by Yoshi to join him at Umu as his number two and has
since been fully involved in the creation and development of our Kaiseki
menu. He is now the executive chef since December 2020. We (KCR)
spoke to him (RK) to celebrate UMU’s remarkable history.
KCR: What is Kyoto cuisine and what sets it apart from other
Japanese sub-cuisines?
RK: Kyoto cuisine is nowadays represented by Kyo-Kaiseki, Shojin ryori
and Obanzai. All of them bene昀椀ted by the soft waters of Kyoto that help
the extraction of umami from the kombu into the dashi. Dishes cooked
with this dashi would not need strong seasoning, enhancing the natural
昀氀avour of the local ingredients, keeping colours and textures.
KCR: Please tell our readers what Kaiseki means and how you
have mastered the art through your experience with various
top class restaurants and professionals
RK: Kaiseki originates as a simple meal served before the Japanese tea
ceremony. It later evolved into a multi course meal designed to match
sake. The Kaiseki cuisine puts emphasis on the seasons, 昀椀ve cooking
technics (raw, steamed, simmered, grilled and fried) and 昀椀ve 昀氀avours
(salty, acidic, sweet, bitter and Umami). My training in Kaiseki started
at Ichimonji, in Tokyo, which gave me a strong foundation. At UMU,
working with Yoshinori Ishii, Masato Nishihara and Daisuke Shimoyama helped me develop a more modern and approachable cuisine.
KCR: What is it like working with Ryan Johnson and that does
the Sake service bring to the experience of Kaiseki?
RK: Working with Ryan is fun. He is always curious, open to new challenges.The sake, having a wide range of 昀氀avours, textures and serving
temperatures, helps complement 昀氀avours and reset palates.
KCR: How does your Argentinian Japanese heritage in昀氀uence
your work?
RK: Growing up in Argentina made me a meat lover. At UMU I always
try to implement seasonal
meat dishes on the menu, salt marsh
lamb in summer, grouse in autumn and deer in winter.
KCR: It’s been twenty years of UMU - the 昀椀rst Kyoto kaiseki
restaurant in London! Congratulations! How does it feel and
what can regulars, Japanophiles and newbies expect from
your classy establishment over the next few years?
RK: Thank you! And I also want to thank all the team members, past
and present, that have made this possible.For the next few years, we
will keep o昀昀ering the best local ingredients prepared with traditional
Japanese techniques.
KCR: Can you brie昀氀y summarise UMU’s sustainability credentials and its import in terms of the summer menu?
RK: Our priority is to source ingredients from the British Isles where
possible and to complement with ingredients from mainland Europe
and Japan. This is re昀氀ected on our summer Kaiseki menu where we are
serving Cornish lobster, Welsh lamb and Scottish langoustine. Complemented with Japanese ingredients like kinome, mitsuba and umeboshi.
KCR: What are your personal favourites on the menu?
RK: From the summer menu, the charcoal grilled Welsh lamb is my
favourite. And when in season, the grouse hot pot is another. Meat,
especially game, is always on the top of my list.
KCR: How do compare the Japanese food scene within London to other non-Japanese cities such as New York and Paris?
Honestly, I don’t know enough about New York and Paris to give an
opinion.
KCR: What are your favourite restaurants in London
RK: The Ledbury for its game dishes and Hannah for Japanese cuisine
that always surprises with the combination of tradition and new creations.
UMU is open Tuesday - Saturday for Lunch 12pm-2pm and Dinner
6pm-10pm. We will feature a review of the restaurant within the Chrsitmas edition in print this November and it will go online this coming
Friday.
14-16 Bruton Pl, London W1J 6LX, United Kingdom
Hours:
Phone: +44 20 7499 8881
umurestaurant.com
